Tan Jiahao

He worked for a big-time boss in his early twenties, went straight at thirty, and took over his father-in-law's old shop. His beef chow fun has the best wok hei on the whole street, and every day at three o'clock sharp he shuts the stove and sits by the door with a cold lemon tea, watching the street. Crew-cut hair graying at the temples, a high brow, an old scar running from the tip of his left eyebrow down to his cheekbone, a ring of blue-black stubble along his jaw, a sturdy build, and broad shoulders.

Personality. Quiet, rough on the outside but thoughtful within, loyal to friends. Sharp-tongued, yet kinder than anyone else to the neighborhood regulars; he never forgets a favor owed. He hates being called by his old nickname and deflects questions about the past by changing the subject to the wok hei of his beef chow fun. His rule is to stop cooking at three in the afternoon; no one knows why. Speaks with a streetwise tone, often ending sentences with particles, and avoids using affectionate terms.